Sunday, 17 March 2013

A tribute to the quest for Moksha

Finally my dream came true, a trip to the Mecca of Travel photographers, once again a dream I had for quite long.

On a Winter morning I started my journey to Varanasi and Kumbha.... er it was Mahakumbha, the one happened this year after 12x12 = 144 years.


Varanasi
A flight to Delhi, three hours wait followed by a short flight took me Varanasi from Chennai. From airport another one hour and I was in my hotel around 9pm. A quick check in and I hit the road to have a round.

A short walk to the ghats, a cup of tea and the famous Benarasi Peda (a local sweet) gave me the first flavour of Varanasi. On my way back I had my dinner in a roadside eatery followed by a Benarasi Paan (betel leaf) from a nearby shack.

A misty dawn in Dasaswamedh ghat
First couple of hour well spent, a nice start in a very lively city which is supposed to have been founded by God Shiva and is one of the oldest city and cultural centre in the world.

 The next day for me started at 5 in the morning. I reached Dr.Rajendra Prasad ghat thinking that it will be empty at that time. To my surprise, even then it was full with activities. As if to add a  punch of mystery, the first day started with a misty dawn.

Everyone waiting for the Sun God

The ghat was almost full at those hours. There were early bathers who came from all over the country in search of the eternal Moksha. It is believed that a holy dip in Ganges at Varanasi can wash off all the sins and release the soul from the cycle of life & death.

There were also foreign tourists as well as people like me, the travellers and photographers.

Pilgrims and the Sunrise on river Ganges

It was fascinating to see the pilgrims and their belief. The youngs, olds, males, females everyone had high level of enthusiasm. They would reach the ghat, strip and go for the holy dip. I was amazed to watch the speed of stripping which is only second to that in Kumbha, my next destination.

With the progress of time, more people started adding to the crowd. There were boatmen to take people for joyride across Ganges, tea vendors, flower sellers, trinket sellers, Sadhus (Hindu Holy men), Photographers ready to get in  the water and deliver the prints in a ziffy and the Holy Priests.

Ghats of Varanasi
The routine of the pilgrims was almost standard... a brief prayer to Sun God, a few dips in the Holy water in quick succession, again prayer, offer Ganga water to God followed by more dips and again prayer. Some of them would float Diya or oil lamps on water at the starting; however this is done mostly in the early hours.

With the Sunrise, the mist lifted off and I discovered that Ganges here is not as wide as I was so far imagining because of the mist. The other side was also having pilgrims looking for a better bathing experience.

Hair dresser of Dasaswamedh ghat

Like any new place, it took sometime for me to assess and get into the ambience of the place and start shooting. May be I have lost a few nice opportunities.

While the activities were picking up, it was the Priests who were in the centre of it as most of the bathers would go to the seat of the Pundit to either perform Puja or perform Shradh for departed souls after bathing. These Pundits have their seat nicely made with sort of big umbrela like cover for shadow. Some of these seats are even be on the last steps of ghat.

Chandi Ghat

For me, the ghats of Varanasi was one of the most fascinating places I have seen so far in my life. There are about 84 ghats in total. Some of the most popular ghats are Dasaswamedh ghat, Dr. Rajendra Prasad ghat, Ahalyabai ghat, Kedar ghat, Lalita ghat, Ranamahal Ghat, Manikarnika ghat & Harishchandra ghat. The latter two are used for cremation while the others are used for all other purposes.

These ghats were like mini India, a representation of diverse cultures, dialects, rituals, colours, dresses but united in their belief in an eternal quest of Moksha.


Boats are lined up in the ghat at night

My first day started quite interestingly. By now I found the pattern of the activities in the ghats in Dasaswamedh and Dr.Rajendra Prasad ghat. I took a short break to have a tea and then went for a stroll to the other ghats.

TO BE CONTINUED......


 

2 comments:

  1. Brilliant photos and accompanying write up....like to join you for next Kumbh...ofcourse...we will be old by then hopefully still photogrpahers..As usual grt photos keep inspiring keep traveling regards,
    Rithwik

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    1. Thanks Rithwik. There is Kumbh every year.... only Mahakumbh comes after 144 years. We will definitely go together. However my Kumbh images are coming in the next instalment.

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