Kanchipuram - a saga of rise & fall of Titans

Ekambareswarar Temple

This is my tribute to Kanchipuram, a small dusty town situated some 72Km from Chennai.

Apparantly, it has got no speciality except the renowned kanchipuram silks. But it has all its glory and importance in its history.


Over the centuries, Kanchipuram has been ruled, at different times, by the Pallavas, Medieval Cholas, Later Cholas, Later pandyas, Vijaynagar Empire, Cranatic kingdom & the British.




Kailashnathar Temple

It is the largest temple city in India with several heritage temples. Although I was not at all fond of History in my student life, now I feel great attraction to visit these temples time and again.

The major temples in Kanchipuram are:

• Ekambareswarar Temple, with 59mt tall Gopuram (gateway tower) it is one of the tallest in India
• Kailashnathar Temple, built by Pallavas;
• Kamakshi Amman Temple, where Goddess Parvati is depicted in the form of an Yantra, Chakra or Peetam (basement); Adi Sankaracharya is closely associated with this temple
• Sri Vaikunda Perumal Temple
• Varadharaja Perumal Temple

Varadharaja Perumal Temple

Kanchipuram was also an ancient education centre like Benaras and was known as Ghatikasthanam or place of learning.

Kanchipuram has a great and illustrious history. Time and again it was invaded by great empires who ruled this part of the country. This started right from 6th Century and went upto the British invasion. Nothing about this city will be complete without mentioning its glorious past.

In 6th century the Pallavas of southern Andhra Pradesh, wary of continuous invasions from north, moved their capital to Kanchipuram.

In this period, Kanchipuram flourished as a centre of Hindu and Budhdhist learning. The important temples like Kailasanathar Temple, Varadharaja Perumal Temple, Iravatanesvara Temple were constructed.

The Mediaeval Chola King Aditya I conquered Kanchipuram along with the rest of Pallava kingdom in 890CE.


In about 1218CE, the Pandya King Maravarman Sundara Pandyan invaded Chola country which was saved by the intervention of Hoysala King Vira Narasimha II who fought on the side of Cholas. 

Subsequently Kanchipuram was conquered by Telegu Cholas and Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan I took over the city in 1258CE.

Corridors around Sanctum Sanctorium in Ekambareswarar Temple

Kanchipuram remained with Pandyans upto 1311CE. After short spells by Ravivarman Kulasekhara of Venad & Kakatiya rulers, it was conquered by the Vijaynagar King in 1361 CE; the Vijaynagar empire's rule lasted upto 1645 CE. 

The end of Vijaynagar Empire came when Golconda Sultanate established its hold in 1672 CE but lost to Bijapur just 3 years later. 

Priest performing morning ritual in Ekambareswarar Temple

In 1676 CE, Sivaji arrived in Kanchipuram, invited by the Golconda Sultanate and drove out Bijapur forces. They held Kanchipuram till the conquest by Mughal forces in October'1687

Thereafter, Marathas invaded Kanchipuram twice in 1724 & 1740 CE and Nizam of Hyderabad in 1742 CE.

The popular 1780 Battle of Pollalur of the second Anglo - Mysore War known for the usage of rockets by Hyder Ali of Mysore, was fought in the village of Pollalur near Kanchipuram. 

Kailasnathar Temple

Kanchipuram was my first serious shooting after buying my first Digital SLR Camera. In my first visit I was absolutely clueless as to what to capture and how to compose. I went on shooting what ever I felt was worthwhile.

I had shot kissing Parrots and Brahminy Myna in Kailashnathar temple, the dome of Gopurams and Squirrels in Kamakshi Amman temple etc. But one of my shot really made my day. "LOST IN PRAYER", the image already posted in my earlier post was made in this visit. It was my first entry to any Photography Salon. Subsequently this image was exhibited in number of National and International Salons and published in various magazines.



Mannat

Kanchipuram have a special place in my life. It is in this city where I first found my love for history. For the first time I had the feeling of going back in time. I got transformed, I started loving history. It was an awesome feeling.

Walking on the same corridors where people walked more than 1000 years back, touching the stone sculpted hundreds of years ago can really give some uncanny feelings. All these acted like an addiction for me. I started serious photography with Temples.

A statue in Kailasnathar Temple

 I have, so far visited  Kanchipuram nearly a dozen times. With every visit I have learnt new things, I have experimented with many options and slowly people started liking my images.

Apart from ancient temples, there is a very famous heritage in kanchipuram and that is the Silk sarees.

Historically, the Chola king, Raja Raja Chola invited weavers to migrate to Kanchi. However, the craft picked up with the mass migration from Andhra Pradesh in 15th century during Vijaynagar rule.

Recently, in 2005, "Kanchipuram Silk Sarees" received the GI tag & became the first product in India to implement the security protocol.

In my initial trips I tried to trace out the manufacturing facilities of these sarees. What I discovered was very little compared to my expectations or may be I am yet to reach the right kind of place.

In spite of all the changes that took place over the years, this city remains as the city of religion and faith. It is considered one of the seven holiest cities in India for both Saivites & Vaishnavites. In my umpteen visits to this city, I have seen and felt this spirit amongst thousands of pilgrims who throng the temples in the break of dawn, from far off places in South, West, East and North India.



Devotion_Ekambareswarar Temple



Indian history is incomplete without Kanchipuram. One has to visit these ancient temples to appreciate the technology, knowledge and craftmanship that was available with our predecessors. I feel proud to be the part of same heritage of India.

Its my love for History and passion for photography that took me many times to Kanchipuram in last three years. I am sure that I will come here to these temples many more times in the years to come. Believe me, every time I go I see new things, discover new rituals and new people.