Friday 7 December 2012

Story on stone..... HAMPI


Colours of Sunset in Hampi
 
Lot many things are told, lot many things are heard & lot of things are imagined; but what you get in reality is often less than all those. But this was very pleasantly proven wrong when I reached Hampi. It was much bigger and mightier than all the stories ever heard or told.


Stone Chariot in Vitthala Temple
For me History was a nightmare in school days, but for some strange reason, when I started my serious photography, I had fallen for historical monuments and ancient architecture. Hampi being one of the most talked about historical site in India, I took the first opportunity to set my feet in this UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.

Virupaksha Temple
From Bangalore it took almost 10hrs by Karnataka State Transport Bus to reach Hampi, a distance of 353Km. Hampi, a village on the bank of Tungabhadra river was the capital of Vijaynagara empire from 1336 to 1565CE. The village has Tungabhadra river flowing on one side & surrounded by rocky hills on all other sides.

Underground Shiva Temple (filled with water)
 
Hampi have several temples and ruins scattered all over, which are the bearers of Vijaynagara style of architecture.

Curving on the boundary wall of Vittahala Tem
 The major sites in hampi are:
    
Vitthala Temple with musical pillars and the iconic stone Chariot (a dance sequence of Rowdy Rathore was shot here),
Virupaksha Temple, Hazararama Temple,
Lakshmi Narasimha statue, 
Chandramouleshwar Temple, 
Underground Shiva Temple, 
Uddana Veerabhadra Temple, 
Sashivekalu Ganesh Temple, 
Lotus Mahal, 
King's Balance (where the King would distribute his weight equivalent of valuables among the mass), 
Mahanavami Dibba, 
Hemkunta Complex, 
Zenana Enclosue and   
Elephant Stable.


The curvings on the pillars, walls and the sculptures are not only beautiful, they speak, tell stories and open up imaginations.


Beautiful works in Mahanavami Dibba
The curvings on the ruins particularly in Mahanavami Dibba are extremely beautiful and dramatic. The King used to watch the annual parade of Imperial majesty & military pride from here.

 
I also liked the Hemkunta Complex. It used to hold markets in those ancient times, where not only things were sold & bought but people used to meet & greet others from near & far, exchange sorrow & joy and part with promises to meet again.
What remains of this complex now, are few old stalls like structure on a rocky plateu. These are built on stone pillars. These pillars are not dug even an inch but are simply standing on the rocks through all these years.
 
The 25square Km. of Hampi has several known and unknown temples; some of them are still live and some are ruins.

The most famous and beautiful temple in Hampi is Vitthala temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The grandeur of its architecture is breath taking.
Virupaksha temple, dedicated to the Hindu God of Destruction Virupaksha is believed to be one of the oldest live temple in India.
Lotus Mahal



We stayed in one of the several homestays available in Hampi; these are quiet nice but basics.
Weather in Hampi is generally comfortable from October to February.




The best part of Hampi is communication.

An old structure on Tungabhadra River bed

Mobile signal is very weak (only BSNL works), but you can get accidental business calls, if your mobile is kept on. Better keep it switched off! There are several booths though, to make calls.


An Unknown Temple near Vittahala Temple
For local sight seeing one should be prepared to ride two wheelers (Cycle or Moped/ Motorbike). There is no Petrol Pump (I have seen one but it was not operational). The Petrol is to be bought from the same rental shop.

I still remember, my friend would ride the moped we hired (I can't) and I would push it uphill to climb up to the main road and then jump on the pillion.


A Corridor in Vittahala Temple
I have been to many historical places but Hampi is different. It is a showcase of  architectural excellence from the Vijaynagara  dynasty which will stand through many more years and challenge the future.

This kingdom was located at the edges of the Muslim Sultanates of the Deccan area. This brought in unusual combination of culture which can be seen in Lotus Mahal & Zenana Enclosure.

Apart from Hindu & Islamic traditions, Jainism was a major religion in Hampi.

I have seen many facades of Hampi .... the whispering ruins, story telling architecture, Engineering wonders, beautiful people and exotic nature. Yes, in Hampi I captured some of my favorite images of birds & People.

In the three days, Hampi have conquered my heart with its beauty, simplicity & greatness.

Even now I vividly remember all the time I spent there, the shack where I used to have tea, the eatery where I used to have meals, the snake charmer on the road, the music shops in the Bus terminus loudly playing local hits and definitely the Coconut vendor near Vitthala Temple.

Beautiful people in Hampi

The three memorable days, I spent with history. I tried to read the stories & hear the whispers of the ruins. I tried to go back in time and walk through the markets. It was a great feeling to be able to touch the history. But I am not fulfilled. I know I have to go back at least once, twice may be many more times till my heart gets satisfied.

As beautiful as Hampi







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